Chapter 1304: Yangzhou Salt Water Goose (I)
Like just now, Yang Huairen talked about the dish of boiled dried shreds again, and after speaking, he got a compliment.
Yang Huairen is still a little immune to these sycophants, so he naturally won't believe it or be complacent, but the admiration of the four chefs of the Golden Building for him is even more sincere, and Yang Huairen is still very happy to be recognized by his peers.
In fact, like the dish of boiled dried shreds, he has never made it before, but he has learned the methods and steps of making it from his father, so he knows more.
The processing of dishes in later generations must be much more mature than now, and Yang Huairen's description of some details in the production process of this dish really shocked the chef of the Golden Building.
Even when they learned this dish from the master, the master only told them that they had to do it, but they didn't understand why they did it, they just mechanically followed the whole production process.
Now listening to Yang Huairen's explanation to them one by one, they gradually understand the influence of some cooking techniques on the taste of dishes, and they actually have a feeling of being opened, how can they not respect Yang Huairen?
The third chef was already impatient, he stood up, and said with some excitement, "Xiao Di has made a famous Yangzhou dish of salted goose, and I hope the prince can taste it carefully." ”
Zhao Xianqiu naturally sent the saltwater goose to Yang Huairen again, still in a small bowl.
For this way of serving dishes, Yang Huairen was just curious at first, and he didn't understand why these were not packed in a large plate, but in a small bowl.
But slowly, he figured it out a little, in addition to the delicate and beautiful factors of serving dishes in small bowls, this may be related to the eating habits of the people in Jiangnan.
Although people's eating habits have gradually developed from dividing food to eating around the country since the Northern Song Dynasty, in Jiangnan, the exquisite literati and those rich people still retain the habit of sharing food even when setting up banquets and wine.
When serving food in the restaurant, some dishes of the northern government cuisine, or some dishes must be placed outside the large plate because they want to maintain their original shape, and many exquisite small dishes are served in small bowls.
When enjoying these side dishes, everyone has a bowl per person, which is fair and just, and you can also taste it slowly.
Speaking of saltwater goose, the first thing that made Yang Huairen think of was that the eating habits of Jiangnan people at this time were much richer than those of northerners.
The most obvious is that there are relatively more types of meat dishes, and the production methods are also diverse, or more intuitively, the people in the middle and lower reaches of the Yangtze River seem to eat more meat and vegetables, and they also like to eat more greasy.
But this kind of greasy is not simply greasy, some dishes are indeed oily and greasy, but some dishes have been skillfully processed by the chefs to become oily but not greasy.
Yang Huairen remembered that when he had just gotten off the boat and walked to Caoyun Yamen, there were some laborers and boatmen on the dock squatting on the side of the road to eat.
Their meal is very simple, a bowl of rice, a piece of white and greasy lard on top, sprinkled with a little shrimp skin or chopped pickles, it is a very good meal.
The hot rice, the heat steamed the lard covered with the rice, and then integrated into the rice, for ordinary people, this kind of lard soaked rice is indeed very fragrant, full and satisfying.
At this time, some meat dishes in Huaiyang cuisine also appear relatively greasy in the selection of materials, like the lion's head in front, it is very delicious to eat, and when you chew it, the smooth taste of the fatty pork in the ingredients is still obvious.
It's just that the lion's head dish has been carefully processed, and the taste is soft and smooth, but it is really oily but not greasy.
Saltwater goose is also a similar reason, among poultry, goose meat is relatively fatty, and according to Yang Huairen's understanding, at this time among the people of Yangzhou, almost every family raises geese, and has formed a tradition.
Compared with chickens and ducks, the benefits of raising geese are also obvious, geese are relatively arrogant birds, to put it more seriously, geese are aggressive.
Children who grew up in the countryside in the south of the Yangtze River may have a deep understanding that the goose at home can not be provoked casually, and if it is not good to make the goose angry, it will really chase you and poke you with its mouth, and many children have been chased or pecked by geese when they were young.
The goose's sense of self-protection is also very strong, many people in Jiangnan raise geese, sometimes they also use geese to watch the home care yard, there are petty thieves or people at home, and the geese will really chase them and attack.
Of course, there are many people who raise geese in the south of the Yangtze River, mainly because of economic benefits, whether it is goose eggs or goose meat, they can be sold for money to subsidize the family.
There are so many geese that it is not surprising that this famous brine goose has been produced.
Saltwater goose, Yangzhou locals commonly known as "old goose", there are small shops or small stalls selling old goose in the streets and alleys. Listening to the name, the saltwater goose seems to be very ordinary, but in fact the preparation of this dish is very tedious and exquisite.
The historical records of this dish can be traced back to the Sui and Tang dynasties, which shows that the people at that time also used their brains to make goose meat more delicious.
To talk about the most famous, Yangzhou famous dish saltwater goose is also well-deserved first, the ancients have a saying in the impression of Yangzhou, called "Slender West Lake, saltwater goose," and even said that Yangzhou, have not been to Slender West Lake, have not eaten Yangzhou saltwater goose, then you are not considered to have been to Yangzhou.
In terms of material selection, saltwater geese need to choose adult fat geese, with a five-pound fat goose as the best, such a fat goose has more meat, and it will not be too old.
After the big fat goose is slaughtered, it is first treated with bloodletting and feathering, then the wing tips and goose paws are removed, the internal organs are removed from the opening of the right wing socket, the goose chamber is cleaned, and then soaked in cold water for about half an hour.
At this time, the residual goose blood and some impurities will float out, wash again, wash all the impurities, hang it and drain it to dry for about an hour, and a white goose will be completed.
The second step is pickling, the salt used to pickle the old goose using the sea salt produced by the local seaside, perhaps because Yangzhou is not far from the salt production area, Yangzhou is the starting point and distribution center of salt transportation from the south to the north, so the local salt price is low, compared with the north is not a scarce thing.
The salt used to marinate the goose is not used directly, but is pre-treated.
Sea salt is slightly bitter, which will affect the effect of pickling, so it is necessary to fry it first, take out the bitterness and fishy smell, and at the same time, you can also mix star anise powder into sea salt according to the ratio of 50 to 1, and fry until the mixed salt has a strong star anise aroma and is very dry, and the mixed salt of pickled duck is completed.