Tongzhou Academy, Xiulan's sister-in-law came from home with a bowl of fish soup, and found the classroom of primary school students familiarly, and saw that he was concentrating on writing, not using a brush, but a very strange hard pen, often dipped in ink, making a pleasant sound on the white paper.

Reverence arises spontaneously, and scholars will be respected wherever they go, and Xiulan's sister-in-law is no exception.

Seeing that he stopped moving, Xiulan's sister-in-law carefully put the soup bowl on the table, for fear of spilling the soup, and asked curiously, "Sir, what are you writing?" ”

Unconsciously used the honorific title of Mr., Xu Hao also felt very fresh, and said: "I am writing a paper on the evolution of dressing, and I occasionally pick up the pen when I think about it. ”

Xiulan's sister-in-law took out the spoon and asked, "What is there to write about this?" Who doesn't dress, and what woman doesn't know how to dress up? ”

"Huh!" Xu Hao smiled, tasted the fish soup first, it tasted very delicious, and explained: "There is a lot of knowledge here, and there is no archaeology yet, I want to throw bricks and attract jade, arouse the hobby of some students, and devote themselves to this major." ”

It was true that he had a sense that professional archaeology had come from the modern Western world, but the European colonizers would have various purposes, despise the civilizations of other countries and nations, and often destroy and plunder more than research.

And after the turmoil of the Ming and Qing dynasties, modern Chinese archaeology started relatively late, there are too many precious things lost, if you can start from the beginning of the Ming Dynasty archaeology, zoology, botany and other disciplines, even if you do not advocate digging the graves of the ancestors, there is no doubt that it will leave a valuable wealth to the descendants, its value can not be measured.

Xu Hao is not a scholar and does not understand the classification of archaeology, but as a guide, he naturally starts with the most basic food, clothing, housing and transportation, even if his knowledge is not high. But with a knowledge that is ahead of its time, it should spark a wide discussion.

Since Xiulan's sister-in-law was willing to listen, Xu Hao said: "Ancient people wore clothes, because of the catastrophe of a hundred years before the previous dynasty, although there were many records left in the books, but because the time was too long, not much was known, and no one had studied it, and most of the people now did not know about it at all, so if archaeology could be established." After studying some unearthed ancient cultural relics and ancient books, and through systematic and professional reference and comparison, our descendants can have a new understanding of all aspects of our predecessors. ”

Seeing that Xiulan's sister-in-law nodded as if she didn't understand, Xu Hao sorted out her thoughts and continued: "Now the history major has a relatively clear outline, not to mention the earliest Xia Dynasty, from Shang to Western Zhou, Spring and Autumn. The Warring States period was about 1,000 years ago, and I can roughly explain the clothing at that time. ”

Suddenly, a cold voice came from outside the door: "What a big breath." What is your identity that you dare to speak out in the academy? ”

Xu Hao said without thinking about it: "Today, the scholar of Zuo Chunfang University of Zhan Shifu is qualified?" ”

"Ahh

A few Confucian scholars outside were taken aback, and the scholars of Zhan Shifu were civil officials of the fifth grade. And it's just an official position, which is equivalent to the prince's senior secretary, so what does it take to talk about knowledge?

Whether it was true or not, several gentlemen from the academy hurried in to pay their respects. Xu Hao replied and said: "You are talented and coincidental, so listen to the crude opinions below, and please give us advice if there is anything inappropriate." ”

"Then it's better to be respectful than to obey."

"The students listened attentively."

From the way a person speaks, you can tell whether he has real talent or not. Since this scholar wanted to preach in public, they couldn't ask for it, so they each found a seat and sat down with a solemn expression. Xiulan's sister-in-law lowered her head a little unaccustomed, thought about it, walked behind Xu Hao, and acted as a little maid.

Xu Hao has given many speeches, but he was not stunned at all, and simply stretched out his hand and called dozens of onlookers outside in.

Xiulan's sister-in-law saw him calmly facing a group of teachers and students, and she trembled slightly nervously at first, for fear that he would be ridiculed after speaking, and thought that it would not be so, and her mood was a little complicated.

Here, Xu Hao re-enlightened and said: "The archaeology I want to talk about actually refers to the study of gold and stone since the Northern Song Dynasty.

Today, let's briefly talk about the evolution of clothing, from the Han Dynasty stone carved statue of Dayu and the palace treasured statues of famous kings and ministers, although there is no large number of physical objects as evidence, but also a little deduce that the Shang Dynasty people, whether from the princes and nobles or civilian slaves, knee-length clothes are the general rule, and people at that time have worn pants. ”

After speaking, he found that the room full of people were at a loss, Xu Hao smiled and said: "Then I will be more detailed, the clothes materials of the Shang Dynasty are mainly leather, silk and hemp, due to the emergence of textiles, silk and hemp have occupied a very important position, and the princes and nobles usually wear colorful silk clothes, with all kinds of weaving and embroidery patterns, and they are tied with wide flower belts.

Commoners and slaves wore plain cloth or coarse wool cloth, which was very simple and monotonous. At that time, aristocratic men often wore hats on their heads, probably flat-topped conbo, made of silk, and remained popular until the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period. ”

Speaking of this, the students were still at a loss, and several gentlemen obviously showed interested expressions, after all, etiquette originated from Zhou Li, and Sage Kong was born in the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period.

Xiulan's sister-in-law looked at him with admiration, and said in her heart that he didn't look at his age, but he knew so much knowledge, and even something so old could be counted like a treasure, which was really amazing.

Xu Hao suddenly walked to Xiulan's sister-in-law, raised his hand and pointed to her head and said, "The most wonderful service is still in the woman's dress, and the woman is the one who pleases herself!" Women in the Shang Dynasty liked to tie their long hair into a bun and cross a bone hairpin, similar to men today. There are also double pipes made of bone or jade, with a bird-shaped shape of one or two inches carved on the top, with oblique plugs on both sides of the head, drooping curls to shoulder length, and a string of variegated glittering jade hanging around the neck as an ornament.

The famous beauty in history Daji is roughly dressed like this, and at that time, it was already important for women to add a flute when they were adults, so it was called "and Xuan", which means that they can get married. ”

Xiulan's sister-in-law flashed to the side with a red face, and said in her heart that he was good at everything, but he was too reckless and abrupt, and other gentlemen ignored any insolence, but he was always unscrupulous, do you think I am a bully?

An elderly gentleman nodded and said, "Yes, that's the allusion to Jilu." Can you tell us about the Zhou Gong Rite system? ”

Xu Hao said: "Then I'll start with the dress, with the Shang Dynasty after thousands of years to the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period." The new hierarchy was established, and the hierarchies of each class were unusually clear, starting from the Western Zhou Dynasty, which was much stricter than now. In addition to owning a large number of slaves, the kings of the vassal states began to levy taxes on all the common people, and the population of the Ding Dynasty had to pay tribute to four zhang and a certain amount of grain every year, and if the cloth was not woven to the standard, it was not allowed to be sold or taxed.

Monarchs and ministers were given ceremonies and weddings and funerals, and their robes were very solemn and had to be of different colors. For example, the Son of Heaven has to travel in a direction according to the season, and what color robe to wear. What color of carriage and horse to prepare, there are strict rules for a qiē.

Even fur clothes must be worn according to the rank, can not exceed the etiquette system, hunters hunted foxes, otters, mink and other precious fur, must be handed over to the government, private is not allowed to use or sell casually, it can be said that clothes in the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States period is equivalent to the etiquette of the noble and low.

From this, it can be seen that today our dynasty has been very relaxed in terms of hierarchy, and commoners can work hard to become officials and wealthy people through the guò imperial examination. This shows that the times are advancing. At that time, according to the ritual system of the Zhou Dynasty, only ordinary people over the age of 70 could wear silk and eat meat, which also shows that the productivity at that time was not the same as now. ”

Don't wait for a few gentlemen who yearn for Zhou Li to argue. Xu Hao first said: "At that time, there was no paper, there was no Confucianism, and even Kong Sheng himself was hungry and full, and Zhou Tianzi was covered with dust. The princes don't respect the royal family, so don't say anything, retro is out of place. Confucianism advocated the period of the Three Emperors and Five Emperors, but at that time, the common people still lived a life of drinking blood. ”

A student smiled and asked, "Sir, what were women wearing at that time?" ”

"That's a good question." Xu Hao smiled again: "Throughout the dynasties, the era when the most particular about clothing was the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period. At that time, not only the monarch himself often wore a gorgeous dress, that is, the minister Keqing also wore Zhu shoes, wore gold and jade at the waist, and went in and out of the high carriage and horse, at that time Confucianism said that jade has seven qualities, and the so-called 'gentleman does not go to the body without a reason', so the nobles, regardless of men and women, will wear several pieces of jade.

In addition, the sword was a new weapon, and in order to show their bravery and travel around the world to defend themselves, the nobles and scholars would wear a jade sword inlaid with gold and jade. There are also crowns, which are even more eye-catching, fine with light yarn as thin as cicada's wings, or luxurious gold and jade, and even as high as a lampstand.

It has been described in the poems of Qu Yuan, the doctor of Chu, that at that time, the shoes of Chu were mostly made of fawnskin, silk or fine grass, and the base was hard and soft, and the nobles would inlay pearls and jade on them.

In winter, the most precious and popular is the white fox fur, which is light and warm, and is worth a thousand gold. Women will use white fox fur to set the cuffs and placket to make a front, which is very beautiful.

At that time, the social atmosphere often followed the preferences of the princes, such as Qi Huan's good clothes were purple, and the Chinese people admired purple clothes all over the body; For example, the king of Chu loves a thin waist, and many palace maids starved to death because of this diet, and other vassal states have followed suit. ”

Speaking of this, the eyes of a group of men looked at Xiulan's sister-in-law's small waist intentionally or unintentionally, causing her to hurriedly run away with a red face, scolding Xu Hao shamelessly in her heart.

Xu Hao smiled: "As for the woman's clothing, well! At that time, women's hair was dressed in more variety. It is popular in Chu to comb braids, make two rings in the middle, and then hang the rest of the hair.

There are also many kinds of buns, some combed into magpie tails, and some as ingots. Women also like to wear hats, which are similar to oval cups, and some have their hair hanging down to their ears and curled up like a scorpion's tail; Girls wear more pigtails and knee-length shirts with pleats at the lower edges. Adult women have become more likely to wear gold and silver rings and tufts of triangular rouge next to their cheeks.

According to ancient records, it was originally a system of the court of the Zhou Dynasty, the gold and silver rings indicate whether there is pregnancy, and the rouge records the date of menstruation, which can be seen at a glance, and it has become a general decoration in the Warring States period, and the original function has slowly disappeared.

The material of the clothes is becoming more and more refined, and the names are numerous, such as the flower brocade from Xiangyi in Henan, the ice silk, embroidery, Qi, and silk from Qilu in Shandong are popular all over the world, and there is a good market; Compared with ordinary silk silk, it has exceeded 20 times. The fine linen cloth produced by Wu Yue in the south, the felt fur cloth produced by the Yan Kingdom in the north, and the fine wool flowers made by the Hu people in the Western Regions are very exquisite and extremely valuable. Printed silk may appear in the Chu State, but the most exquisite clothing materials are still gorgeous embroidery and brocade. ”

As Xu Hao talked eloquently, the students only admired the profound knowledge of this gentleman who came from afar, and several gentlemen were already shocked, and Xu Hao could easily count the things of two thousand years ago, and explained them in a very simple vernacular, which is definitely a rare erudition.

Xu Hao himself secretly called it a fluke, if it weren't for the help of his own woman, he got evidence from many precious unearthed cultural relics one after another, and when he sorted out the Hongxi Ceremony, there were enough people to extract the relevant records in the ancient books, and it was impossible for him to remember it so clearly, how could it be?

But in any case, Xu Hao's whims many times, because his status is very light, he will work a lot of manpower and material resources, no matter what the role, as long as these experiences and results are recorded one by one, it will be a rare and precious heritage for future generations. (To be continued......)